The Kitty Dress
So Over It
I am currently on a So Over It pattern kick. This is my second pattern in a row that I’ve made from them, and I have plans to make more, especially as part of my fall back-to-work wardrobe.
So, why do I keep coming back to them? First of all, I love their styles. They are a perfect mix of vintage with a modern feel. They have some patterns in their range that are directly vintage styles (The Joan dress for example) and others that are more of a nod, like this one.
Another reason is that I know what changes I need to make to the patterns before I even start. This is the forth pattern I’ve made from SOI, so I’m hoping that I can just make the changes to the patterns in the future without having to go through the muslining process.
For reference, my standard changes for their patterns are:
- doing a 3/4″ narrow shoulder adjustment (I could probably do 1″, but many of their modelled pictures show a slightly relaxed shoulder)
- reducing the bottom of the armscye by 1″. (I just fold back .5″ of the side seam (front and back bodice pieces) at the armhole. Then I redraw the cutline from my new underarm point to about the bust line. To make the sleeve fit the new armhole, I just mark a point .5″ in on either side of the underarm seam and then redraw the cut line to match up with the wrist.
- (Note: For the Pussy Bow Blouse pattern, I shortened the sleeve by 1″)
Finally, I love using SOI patterns because I have not had to do an FBA (full bust adjustment) on any of their styles. I don’t mind doing a narrow shoulder adjustment (it’s quick and relatively painless), but doing FBA’s on different bodice shapes and with different directions of darts, cut on sleeves, etc. does get a little tiring.
Dress Details
Size: UK 16
Adjustments Needed: 3/4″ narrow shoulder adjustment (The next time I make this dress, I will take in the armscye by 1″ and shorten the back bodice by about .5″)
Fabric: Rayon from Tania Textiles (Quebec City)
Buttons: Red Shell buttons (Accent Mode) from Tania Textiles (Quebec City)
Additional Changes Made: I had to slightly reduce the size of the pockets as I had a very small amount of fabric left. The pattern called for 3.1 metres, and by cutting it flat, I was able to make it out of 2.5 metres (but with slightly smaller (but still very roomy) pockets.
Construction
The illustrations in the pattern booklets are clear and helpful. I always appreciate it when the diagrams are so clear, you can construct the garment (or at least most of it) without having to read the instructions.
A shawl collar is something new for me. I have never owned a garment with one before and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to do. I just need to keep in mind that the facing is the part that shows on the outside. Usually a ripple in the fabric when you apply your fusible interfacing isn’t a big deal, but here it’s on display for everyone to see.
For this particular pattern, I didn’t really enjoy the pocket insertion. I found it quite fiddly for the same result as other methods. Next time I make this pattern, I will serge the edge of the pockets, attach a pocket (RST) to each side seam, press them away from the skirt, and then sew the front and back pieces together, going around each of the pockets. It will be much simpler (and probably faster too)
Final Thoughts
I’m really happy with how my Kitty dress turned out. I think I will get a lot of use from it, both at work, and more casually. I would like to use some of the other versions as well, and possible even a hack without a collar (more of just a v-neck with buttons)
I think the next Sew Over It project I’ll tackle is the Betty dress (hopefully while the weather is still hot) and then I’d like to try some more pieces from the Workwear to Weekend e-book that I have. I have already made 2 Edie tops and a Kate dress from the collection, but I’d love to sew the whole e-book as a capsule. I know, I’m getting way ahead of myself here, but it’s a dream.