Turning a women’s button-up shirt into a child’s shirt


The last time I went through my closet, I found that there were quite a few garments that didn’t fit me anymore that I wasn’t quite ready to part with. I put them in a box and labelled it ‘refashion’ not knowing when (or if) I would revisit them.

When my son had a checkered shirt day at his daycare, I realized it would be the perfect opportunity to pull out this buffalo check shirt and make him something out of it. To turn my RTW shirt into a mini-version for him, I used one of my go-to patterns (Classic Oxford Button-up from Peek-a-Boo Patterns)

The other times I’ve made this pattern, I’ve made it from scratch. But the pattern also includes instructions for making it from an existing men’s shirt. In this case, you can use the existing button placket. Because I was making this shirt from a women’s button-up shirt, I actually turned the shirt upside-down before cutting the front pieces out so that the buttons and button holes would be on the correct side.

When using the existing button placket you have to place your pattern piece so that the top button is approximately 2″ below the top of the piece. You also need to remember to place the centre front of the piece (and not the edge of the piece) along the mid-point of the placket.

I was also able to use the existing yoke and pleat from the back of my shirt. To do this, I taped the yoke and back pattern pieces together making sure that I eliminated the seam allowances. Then I lined up my pattern piece so that the bottom of the shirt yoke was even with where the yoke pattern piece met the back pattern piece. I cut it all together and was able to save myself quite a few steps. 

I was able to cut the sleeves while still keeping the existing placket and cuff from my original shirt. To cut out the piece, I did have to unpick the sleeve and remove the cuff to have the pattern piece fit nicely. Then I was able to cut my sleeve, and add a button tab on the inside of the sleeve so that it could be rolled up and buttoned in place.

Once my sleeve was attached to the shirt, I was able to sew the cuff back on the bottom of the sleeve. 

Final Thoughts

The actual sewing of the shirt was really quick as most of the more complicated parts were skipped though using elements of my existing shirt (button placket, yoke, cuffs). I was able to complete the sewing in about 2 hours. The collar pieces were the only pieces that I needed to cut “from scratch”. 

I’m so glad I was able to give this shirt new life. I’m also really happy that I now know that I can fairly easily convert one of my old shirts into a child’s shirt. 



Unfortunately, if I do decide to refashion one of my husband’s shirts in the future, I likely wont be able to use the existing sleeve placket or cuff as they will be too big for the toddler-sized shirt (the woman’s small shirt cuffs were very similar in size to the pattern pieces). However, I should still have enough fabric leftover to cut new ones. 

Carolyn Pajamas 

Closet Core Patterns

My new set of Carolyn Pajamas is my most worn make of 2020, despite the fact that I only made them in October. These pj’s are comfy, but still look and feel put together. I will admit, I put them on as soon as I finish work every day. 

The Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Core Patterns have different mix and match options, including pants, shorts and two sleeve lengths for the top. Although I didn’t have enough fabric for all of the options, I made the short sleeved top, the pants, and a pair of shorts.




This was a fun make. I really had to slow down and take my time to make sure that I was getting the collar and piping done correctly. The final garments are definitely worth the extra time, and I’m sure that the more times I make this pattern, the faster construction will be. 

This was my first time working with a Closet Core Pattern and I found the instructions to be clear. The trickiest bit was the collar insertion, and that was only because I didn’t clip far enough into the seam allowance. Once I went back and clipped further, I was able to get the collar in without a problem. 

The pajamas can be made with or without the piping, but I think that adding it was a really nice touch, especially with the bright print of the fabric. The pattern suggested that you make your own piping so that the seam allowance is the same as the seam allowance as the pattern, but as I was just using white, I went for store bought instead. The seam allowance of the piping was 3/8″, so I did have to measure the placement before pinning and sewing with it. 


In order to sew nice and close to the piping, I used a zipper foot that can be adjusted to be on either side of the needle. 

Pajama Details

Pieces Made: Short-sleeved top, pants & shorts

Size: 10 through the shoulders and arms, and then graded up to a 14 through the body

Adjustments needed: Shortened pant length by 3″

Fabric: 4.5 metres of John Kaldor Lizzano Cotton Sateen fromMinerva

(*Fabric was gifted in exchange for a blog post)

Notions (Piping and Buttons): Club Tissus

This is a pattern that I will use again and again, both for me and as gifts for others in the future. Because they are so nice, I don’t feel guilty about wearing them around the house in the evenings and all weekend. (Although it did take me a little time to get over the “but they’re too nice to wear as everyday pajamas” thing). I did buy the fabric and notions to make a Christmas version, but I never got around to it. So, expect to be seeing a pair from me for Christmas 2021, as well as a few more pairs in between! 


The Anna Skirt


I was recently given the opportunity to choose a pattern from the DIBY Club to review. For me, it was an easy decision. As soon as I saw the Anna Skirt, I knew it was for me. There are many different options with this skirt, including 4 lengths, the option of high waisted or mid waisted, and options like pockets and belt loops.

(Note: The pattern was gifted, but all options are my own)

This was my first time using the DIBY Club website and their sewing patterns. I was really impressed with the amount of information offered both in their pattern and on their blog. There are tutorials for a variety of different sewing challenges, including how to fit pants correctly and how to install an invisible zipper. I even found that my go-to guide for serger tension (that I have used many times and even saved on my phone for quick reference) is originally from the DIBY Club blog. ( You can find it here ) Their tension troubleshooting comparison chart has saved me many headaches!



Putting the pdf pattern together was straightforward. The instruction package was thorough, however, I did find that sometimes it was easy to get lost in all of the content. Everything is clearly outlined in the table of contents, but when scrolling through the steps, I sometimes lost my place or my rhythm because I stopped to read about different seam finishes or I couldn’t quickly find the number of buttons I needed.

Before cutting into my fabric, I made a quick muslin (in the mini length) to check the fit. With the topstitching on the skirt, it would have been harder to take in the seams after the fact if it didn’t fit correctly. It ended up fitting perfectly except for having extra fabric at my lower back. Following the instructions provided in the pattern, I did a sway back adjustment and it worked out perfectly.

Skirt Details

Size: 14 graded down to a 10 at the hip

Waistband: High Waisted

Length: Midi (I used 6 buttons on the skirt, instead of the suggested 8)

Adjustments needed: 1″ sway back adjustment

Fabric: Famous Maker Deep Rose Mauve Baby Corduroy from LA Finch Fabrics

Tack Buttons: Minerva

Changes made:

  • Moved buttons further apart on the waistband (so that they weren’t touching)
  • Added a second row of stitching at the hem to resemble a double needle


What I love most about the finished skirt are the details. The top stitching on the seams waistband, as well as the tack buttons, give it a really professional look. I used a quilting presser foot on my machine to make sure that the topstitching was in a nice, straight line. 

Final Thoughts

The Anna Skirt is a well made pattern that can be used again and again with many different looks. The panels of the skirt give you good control of fit, and the explanations for alterations are clear and helpful. There are also so many hacking possibilities for this skirt!

Will I make this skirt again? Yes. I plan on making the mini length in a leopard poplin for fall (to wear with opaque black tights and boots), although I will add in-seam pockets. 

I would recommend the DIBY Club to beginners and more experienced sewists alike, as the instructions are clear, but I learned something new too (that was my first sway back adjustment on a skirt and my first time using tack buttons. I used their YouTube tutorial for help with that.)

I am really happy with my Anna Skirt. I will be able to wear it to work, and wear it more causally with a t-shirt and runners. I am looking forward to trying more DIYB Club patterns in the future.


The Tamzin Dress

By Hand London

The tricky part about pattern testing is that you’re not always guaranteed a dress that you’ll end up loving and wearing afterwards. Sometimes the fit isn’t exactly your style, other times you make it in a fabric you’re not in love with just in case it doesn’t work out, but then new projects pop up and you never get around to making it in your dream fabric. 

Other times you make the pattern up and it instantly becomes your favourite new dress that you want to wear every single day. That was the case with the new Tamzin Dress from By Hand London. 



The Tamzin is described as a folk dress with a square neckline, 3/4 sleeves and a gathered skirt (both with tuck details) and 2 different waist tie options.  The neckline has an external facing so that you can have fun with different embroidery or beading techniques. As with all of By Hand London’s new designs, the dress has the option of either the standard B cup or the new D cup size band (just note that the D cup band starts with a US size 12)

I really like the way that By Hand London patterns are organized. I find it easy to reference the information such as yardage and notions needed and see the layouts (even if I don’t use them). The tucks were surprisingly easy to do and gave a really nice (and original) look to the dress. And that neckline is beautiful! There are so many embellishing opportunities with this dress.

So, as I mentioned, I didn’t use the cutting layout for the dress. I rarely do, but in this case I definitely didn’t want to. I have to admit, I absolutely hate cutting out rayon. I love the way it looks and the way it feels on and you can always find the most amazing prints, but it is slippery and it hates to stay in one place when you’re cutting it. You lay it out flat, and then if you breathe too hard you find that you need to start all over again. I figured that if I tried to cut on the fold and the layers slipped, it would be really obvious since there is a very clear grid on my fabric. So, using it to my advantage, I cut everything out flat and used the lines on the fabric to line up the pieces instead of measuring to the selvedge. 

Dress Details

Size: US 12 / D-Cup

View Made: Variation 1: Front Ties

Adjustments Needed: I shortened the sleeves by 1.5″. I also shortened the skirt (See comment in changes made)

 Fabric: Rayon from Tania Textiles (Quebec City)

Changes Made: I (unintentionally) changed the size of the tucks in the skirt. I miscalculated how much to shorten the skirt by, and when I tried it on, I found that I didn’t love the length (I had shortened it to just above the knee). So, I decided that I loved the dress too much to not to fix it and resewed the tucks at 1″ instead of 1.5″. That ended up giving me back 3″ of length and I love how that turned out. 




I love how easy it is to throw on the Tamzin and go. I have found in the past that dresses with no structure and no zips or other closures drown me in fabric, especially because I am a big fan of sleeves (less chance of getting a sunburn) and midi-length skirts. I usually find it helps to add a belt or some sort of tie. This dress has the tie included which makes it so much easier to get ready. It’s also helpful for this post (mid) quarantine time where we have gotten used to wearing things a little comfier and a lot more forgiving. This dress is the ultimate secret pyjamas that just look so nice!



Final Thoughts

I love this dress. It is one of my new favourites and I can’t wait to make more versions of it. I think it would look really nice is a fall weight fabric (like a lightweight wool), in some sort of houndstooth or herringbone print with with a contrasting collar and also with hacked sleeves that are more of a puffed shape (by adding elastic into the sleeve hem). I also love the addition of the D-cup band in By Hand London patterns. With the time I save from doing an FBA, I can work on other fun hacks to the patterns.

The Kitty Dress

So Over It


I am currently on a So Over It pattern kick. This is my second pattern in a row that I’ve made from them, and I have plans to make more, especially as part of my fall back-to-work wardrobe.

So, why do I keep coming back to them? First of all, I love their styles. They are a perfect mix of vintage with a modern feel. They have some patterns in their range that are directly vintage styles (The Joan dress for example) and others that are more of a nod, like this one. 

Another reason is that I know what changes I need to make to the patterns before I even start. This is the forth pattern I’ve made from SOI, so I’m hoping that I can just make the changes to the patterns in the future without having to go through the muslining process. 


For reference, my standard changes for their patterns are:

  • doing a 3/4″ narrow shoulder adjustment (I could probably do 1″, but many of their modelled pictures show a slightly relaxed shoulder)
  • reducing the bottom of the armscye by 1″. (I just fold back .5″ of the side seam (front and back bodice pieces) at the armhole. Then I redraw the cutline from my new underarm point to about the bust line. To make the sleeve fit the new armhole, I just mark a point .5″ in on either side of the underarm seam and then redraw the cut line to match up with the wrist. 
  • (Note: For the Pussy Bow Blouse pattern, I shortened the sleeve by 1″)

Finally, I love using SOI patterns because I have not had to do an FBA (full bust adjustment) on any of their styles.  I don’t mind doing a narrow shoulder adjustment (it’s quick and relatively painless), but doing FBA’s on different bodice shapes and with different directions of darts, cut on sleeves, etc. does get a little tiring. 

Dress Details

Size: UK 16

Adjustments Needed: 3/4″ narrow shoulder adjustment (The next time I make this dress, I will take in the armscye by 1″ and shorten the back bodice by about .5″)

Fabric: Rayon from Tania Textiles (Quebec City)

Buttons: Red Shell buttons (Accent Mode) from Tania Textiles (Quebec City)

Additional Changes Made: I had to slightly reduce the size of the pockets as I had a very small amount of fabric left. The pattern called for 3.1 metres, and by cutting it flat, I was able to make it out of 2.5 metres (but with slightly smaller (but still very roomy) pockets.


The illustrations in the pattern booklets are clear and helpful. I always appreciate it when the diagrams are so clear, you can construct the garment (or at least most of it) without having to read the instructions.

A shawl collar is something new for me. I have never owned a garment with one before and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to do. I just need to keep in mind that the facing is the part that shows on the outside. Usually a ripple in the fabric when you apply your fusible interfacing isn’t a big deal, but here it’s on display for everyone to see. 

For this particular pattern, I didn’t really enjoy the pocket insertion. I found it quite fiddly for the same result as other methods. Next time I make this pattern, I will serge the edge of the pockets, attach a pocket (RST) to each side seam, press them away from the skirt, and then sew the front and back pieces together, going around each of the pockets. It will be much simpler (and probably faster too)


Final Thoughts

I’m really happy with how my  Kitty dress turned out. I think I will get a lot of use from it, both at work, and more casually. I would like to use some of the other versions as well, and possible even a hack without a collar (more of just a v-neck with buttons)

I think the next Sew Over It project I’ll tackle is the Betty dress (hopefully while the weather is still hot) and then I’d like to try some more pieces from the Workwear to Weekend e-book that I have. I have already made 2 Edie tops and a Kate dress from the collection, but I’d love to sew the whole e-book as a capsule. I know, I’m getting way ahead of myself here, but it’s a dream.


The Minna Dress

Schultz Apparel


I love following Amalie from Schultz Apparel on Instagram. Her feed is full of the most beautiful pieces that are a mix of modern and vintage and they are exactly what I want in my wardrobe right now. She has recently started selling her designs and I am so excited about it!


The Minna dress has 3 different views and they are all beautiful. I made view C, with 3/4 sleeves, a gathered skirt and buttons up the front. The best part, it has an invisible zipper up the side, which means it isn’t even necessary to make buttonholes for the front buttons. 





I chose a cotton print from my local fabric store (Tania Tissus). If you haven’t heard me rave about it before, it truly is the best. The people working there are very helpful and the selection is excellent. It’s one of those places where you walk in, and they’ll show you all the new things that they got since you last time you visited.

The instructions for this pattern are clear, and the illustrations are helpful. There are also a few handy tips in the explanations. Instead of creating large pattern pieces for the skirt, the pattern gives you the measurements for cutting it directly on the fabric. This cut down on the number of pages to print, which is appreciated).

I had to make a few small changes to the pattern for fit. I shortened the sleeves and took a little bit more out of the darts. I also made the skirt 4″ narrower (but that was because my fabric wasn’t quite as wide as the measurement I needed. In the end, despite making a muslin, I ended up needing to take up the shoulders. I had only created the muslin version of the bodice, and with the weight of the skirt, it pulled everything down slightly. Add that to the list of things I am still learning!

Pattern Matching

After cutting out the skirt, I could see that I would have some extra fabric leftover, so I decided to do some pattern matching.

I know that there are many ways to do this, but here is the method I use. 

  • First of all, I make sure that I do all of my prep first. That includes having the pattern pieces on tissue paper, laying the fabric out flat and choosing where in the pattern I want the pattern (I’m sure we’ve all seen some flowers that are not strategically placed in RTW)
  • Cut out one side of the bodice (respecting grainlines and original idea of where you want the pattern placed)
  • Fold back the edge of the cut piece along the centre front line. That way you are matching the very centre of the shirt where it comes together. Note: If you aren’t working with a buttoned bodice, fold the seam allowance back. Iron (or pin) in place.
  • Place the cut pattern piece on your fabric so that it is directly covering the identical image
  • Flip over the pattern piece (to mirror it) and fold back the tissue paper to the centre front. Line this folded edge up with the folded edge of the piece you cut first.
  • Pin the pattern piece down to your fabric close to the fold. Once it is secured, remove the piece you cut first, fold the rest of the piece down and pin it. 

Final Thoughts

This is by far one of my favourite things I’ve ever made for myself. The style and fit are exactly what I was looking for, and the fabric from Tania Tissus is perfect for it. 

Will I make it again? Absolutely! I already have the fabric ready for the short sleeved version.



The Olive Top and Dress

Megan Nielsen


I love Megan Nielsen Patterns! They come in beautiful packaging, they are unique designs, and I find the explanations are clear and the illustrations helpful. So when an offer to test The Olive dress came into my inbox, I couldn’t say no.

The Olive dress has a relaxed silhouette, a gathered waist, dropped shoulder and a V-neck with insert. 

I will admit, I have struggled with finding the right fit with Megan Nielsen tops. I find that they have a lot of additional ease to create the relaxed fit and that often I end up with a loose fit that looks too roomy. They look like they don’t fit as opposed to looking like a relaxed fit. Knowing that, I made sure that I worked with the finished garment measurements and skipped the body measurement guide completely. My measurements would have put me at a 16 grading to an 18 at the waist, however, based on the finished garment measurements I ended up cutting the 10 and doing an FBA (full bust adjustment).


I used the Closet Case Patterns tutorial (here) for doing an FBA on a dartless top with a dropped shoulder because it was a similar shape. I added .75″ per side.

I also chose to handstitch the bias binding down to the inside of the neckline. I had originally done it by machine, but found that I had some rippling along the stitching line. 


The trickiest part of the pattern was the insertion of the V insert. I made 2 versions of the dress and on my first one I didn’t add interfacing. It was easier to turn the fabric at the bottom of the V. On this final version, I added the interfacing (as per the instructions) and I found it difficult to turn all the layers at the bottom. Fortunately, the method was changed between the testing phase and the release.



The pockets of this dress are amazing. They are big and placed well. I will admit, they have become my go-to pockets (and pocket insertion method) for dresses that don’t have pockets. 

Final Thoughts

I am so happy I had the opportunity to test this pattern. It’s not a style that I would normally choose for myself. Will I make myself another Olive? Probably not, or at least not exactly as is. I am planning to add a self belt, or even waist ties to this dress to help bring it in at the waist for a little more shape. I think that would help me get more use out of it. 



The Norma Blouse

Fibre Mood

Every time I have scrolled through my Instagram feed lately, I’ve come across at least one picture of the Fibre Mood Norma blouse.

Fibre Mood offered this pattern for free the week of their sewalong, and I’m so glad I picked it up then. If you weren’t lucky enough to catch their sale, no worries. You can still buy the pattern here.

The Norma blouse is a short, V-neck top with balloon sleeves. It can be made from a variety of fabrics for different looks. 



I made the Norma Blouse in a size 10 and graded to a 12 through the bust, waist and hip. I suggest looking at the final garment measurements to see how you would like the blouse to fit before cutting out a size. My measurements put me at a size 14, but I decided that I wanted to the top to be more fitted than the pattern suggested. I did end up making a couple of small changes to the pattern.


First of all, I lengthened the pattern by 3″. The Norma is intended to be cropped, and I wanted the option of tucking it in.


I raised the centre front by 1.5″

To do this, I drew a straight line 1.5″ up from the original pattern piece and used my french curve ruler to redraw a line from the edge of the shoulder to the dot.


I redrew the facing piece to match the new curve of the neckline.





I raised the armscye by 1″ on both the front and back pieces. Again, this was an easy fix. To raise the armhole, just draw a line 1″ up from the original. Then use a curved ruler to connect the new marking to the original armhole. Don’t forget to transfer any notches!

Because I raised the armscye of the front and back body pieces, I needed to also raise the sleeve the same amount. (1″)

Again, I drew a line straight up from the original and then used my curved ruler to true the line. 






Even though my front and back pieces were graded (10 at the underarm point up to a 12 at the bust), the muslin was slightly too bulky for me. I ended up folding over .5″ on the side seams at the from the underarm through the bust area (and then having it meet up with the original pattern piece around the waist area.




Because I reduced the side seam, I had to also take the same amount out of the sleeve so that it would still fit. I wanted to keep the fullness at the sleeve cap, so took the .5″ out of each side between the seam and the first notch. 

I also wanted to keep the fullness at the cuff, so I folded the pattern piece so that it removed the .5″ at the sleeve cap, but opened up again leaving the original circumference of the hem.



Final Thoughts

I am so happy with the way this top turned out. I love the fit and the statement sleeves. This pattern is at the very top of my ‘make again’ list. I would love to make it in a flowy rayon for a different look. I have also seen some Normas hacked into dresses, so that’s something I would love to add to my closet.

It is a quick sew and is very wearable. It was my first time working with a Fibre Mood pattern, and now I’m interested in trying more. 


The Fleur Pinafore

Untitled Thoughts

Introducing the Fleur Pinafore, the new pattern from Untitled Thoughts. This was my first time making an Untitled Thoughts pattern and if you haven’t made one before, you’re in for a treat! Brittani writes her patterns as if she is talking you through them. And she even tells you the best time to pause for a snack break. (And you’d better believe I listened!)

The Fleur has 2 strap options (tie straps or button straps) and has a cute button placket on the sides and has an optional bib pocket. It is intended for confident beginners and up.

If you’re looking for more Fleur inspiration, check out the tester round-up here.


I made my tester version in a stretch denim that I’ve had in my stash for many, many years and lined the bib and waistbands with a plain white broadcloth. There were a few testers who made the pinafore in a solid and the lining in a really fun print, and now that’s something I’m interested in doing in the future.

I made the pinafore in a size 8. I decided to lengthen the skirt by 3″ just for personal preference. I also decided to use snaps and not buttons on the side placket openings because a) I didn’t have 2 sizes of matching buttons, and b) I wanted to make the waistband slightly smaller than it was (and it would be obvious if the buttons weren’t lined up completely vertically).

The skirt itself was an easy sew. The instruction booklet has clear pictures and instructions. Also, the method of doing the side plackets was new to me, and I love learning new sewing tricks.

The only problem that I ran into during construction was that the top of the bib didn’t lay flat. It would either gape quite a bit, or if i tried to push it back in, it would wave (as seen in the picture on the left). I wasn’t the only one who had the same problem in the tester group, but it seemed like it was only the people with a larger cup size that were affected. I decided that I would fix the problem by adding a strip of lightweight boning across the top, and it worked great. (Picture on the right)

Note: For my next version, I won’t need to use this method. I could just sew the boning in as I go. In this case, I had already understitched the lining and attached the waistband and skirt before noticing the problem.

Adding the Boning

I chose a lightweight plastic boning. I didn’t want to make the top heavy, because that would cause the same problem.

I sewed a casing for the boning. I took the measurement of the boning, added a small amount of ease and my seam allowances.

Trim the seam allowance and use a rouleau turner to turn the seam allowance to the inside. Press with seam centred on the back

Insert the boning into the casing and tuck the two ends under. Handstitch the casing to the top edge of the bib.

Final Thoughts

This pattern was so much fun to sew and is so much fun to wear! And the pockets are so nice and roomy.

I would like to try this pattern out again, but just as a skirt. I think the side plackets with buttons would make it an original and flattering skirt pattern.

The Zadie Jumpsuit

Paper Theory Patterns

Last year I responded to a post on Instagram from someone who was looking for sewing friends. I was fairly new to the Instagram sewing community, so I jumped at the chance. A handful of people responded and we decided that it would be a fun idea to choose one pattern and all sew a version of it by a certain date. From there, our group of international sewing friends decided our first project was going to be the Zadie Jumpsuit and we were going to have it done by November 1st, 2019. Did we all get it done by the deadline? No. Did we all get it done at all? Also no. But I don’t think that was ever really the point. 

Our group choose a pattern that I would never have chosen for myself. I assumed that as a short, busty sewist, a jumpsuit wouldn’t be flattering on me, especially a jumpsuit that is known for having a little bit of extra ease. However, knowing that my new group of sewing friends were going to see it, or at least ask me about it, was a great motivator to take the time to make a muslin before diving into the real thing. 

I chose a linen (or linen blend?) from Tania Textiles for the jumpsuit. I didn’t know what I was looking for, but when I found a bolt of it in the back I knew it was perfect. I could not be happier. The short-sleeved version takes just shy of 3 metres. Fortunately, I already had the thread to match. When does that ever happen?



Since this was not my usual style, I decided to read a few blogs about the fit of the Zadie. Most of them said the same thing; size down. So I did. Quite a bit! Here are more details about the changes I made:


  • I made a size 12, even though my measurements put me at a 16 bust, 18 waist and 14 hip (For reference, I am 41″ / 35″ / 41″). Keep that finished measurement chart in mind when choosing your size.
  • I reduced both the front and back rises by  1″.
  • I slimmed the front and back leg pieces by 1″ (I did this by reducing the outside leg seam so that it came down almost straight from the hip. This meant that I also had to reduce the side of the pocket the same amount)
  • I hemmed my pants at a 20″ inseam. I thought long and hard about where I wanted to hem these pants. I love the look of pants that end at the ankle bone, but if I don’t wear them with high heels, it tends to look like my pants are just a little too short for me. 

When I make it again, I think I will move the shoulder seam back by about half an inch to an inch. I feel like my shoulders slope forward when I wear it. . 

Final Thoughts

I am so glad that this pattern was the one chosen by my group. I would love to make some more versions of this in the future. I think my closet is missing one Zadie in a flowier fabric, and a Zadie wrap dress. I saw so many dress versions while looking through Instagram and blog inspiration. I have never been able to find a wrap dress that fits properly, so this might fit the bill.